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Lead Climbing Coaching at Froggatt..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 17:56:00 +0000

Duncan, David and I were out at Froggatt Edge today during a day of private instruction and lead coaching.

It has been a warm day with plenty of sunshine, making it a nice day to be out rock climbing on the grit. After looking at some belays Duncan and David made light work of 'Slab Recess Direct' (HS), 'Gamma' (VD), 'Slab Recess' (D), 'Joe's Slab' (5c), 'Heather Wall' (S), 'Sunset Slab' (HVS) and 'Sunset Crack' (VS).

Lead Climbing at Stanage..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Sun, 20 Jul 2008 17:48:00 +0000

Pete, John and I were out for our second day of a Lead Climbing Course in the Peak District today. We chose to visit Stanage Edge to put yesterday's skills in to practice.

Pete and John led a number of routes with a top rope back up, and also climbed a number of others independently. This demonstrating their sound grasp of belay and runner placement.

Unfortunately, another climber was injured falling from 'Martello Buttress' (VS) not far from us. He was evacuated with the help of Edale Mountain Rescue Team (EMRT) and the Air Ambulance. We hope he makes a swift recovery.

Lead Climbing at Birchen Edge..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 21:13:00 +0000

Pete, John and I visited Birchen Edge today to look at the essential skills for Lead Climbing.

There were a few showers during the day, although the crag was drying quickly in the breeze. We still managed to get plenty of practice in with belays and gear placement ready for some leading tomorrow.

The crag was busy with another team doing their Single Pitch Award (SPA) Training with Pete Stacey, and lots of independant climbing pairs. Between us we climbed 'Emma's Temptation' (VS), 'Camperdown Crawl' (VS), 'Trafalgar Crack' (VD), and 'Fo'c'sle Crack' (S).

Sunday looks like a much better day, with some perfect gritstone conditions forecast..

North Wales Multi Pitch..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Sun, 13 Jul 2008 21:59:00 +0000

Ian, Paul and I have been climbing with Jeiff, Jane, Pandie, Richard and Andrew this weekend in North Wales.

Despite some heavy rain on Saturday morning the crags soon dried to give some excellent conditions. The obvious venue for the first day was Tremadog, with it's ease of approach, an abundance of classic routes and fast drying dolerite.

Here we climbed some classic routes including 'Christmas Curry' (S), 'One Step in the Clouds' (VS), 'Yogi' (VS), 'Shadrach' (VS) and 'Grim Wall' (VS).

Sunday resulting in the group going to seperate venues including Dinas Mot, Carreg Wastad and Craig Ddu. Jeiff and I climbed 'Direct Route' (VS) and 'Western Slabs' (VS) on "The Mot" enjoying good dry rock apart from the odd avoidable wet streak!

It looks like another good day of dry weather will be required to dry out the more persistant damp areas. But all in all not bad for summer in North Wales..

North Wales..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Wed, 09 Jul 2008 15:02:00 +0000

The weather has been changeable for the last few days in north wales with frequent showers. Despite the rain students from New Mills School have been climbing on Little Tryfan today. Early indications suggest better conditions for the weekend..

Blustery showers in the Peak..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Sat, 05 Jul 2008 16:39:00 +0000

It's been a blustery day here in the Peak District with some significant showers. Despite this there have been some fantastic sunny spells between the showers, with the gritstone edges drying almost instantly.

Paul Knowles has been out with Teresa and Steve at Birchen Edge today on the first of two days private instruction. They have covered plenty of ground: leading, rigging top ropes and belays etc as well as getting some climbing done.

I also managed a quick soloing and bouldering session at Burbage North before returning to Sheffield. The rock was totally dry but the odd puddle was a bit of a clue to this mornings weather. The forecast for tomorrow looks to be somewhat better, so fingers crossed.

I am off to North Wales on Sunday, working with White Hall Centre who are doing an away course with New Mills School. Following this, I will be Multi Pitch climbing with the Climbing and Mountaineering Sports Club from John Lewis Partnership...

Stoney Middleton..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Thu, 03 Jul 2008 21:26:00 +0000

Dave Hollinger and I visited Stoney Middleton's Windy Buttress this evening. Conditions were good and we had the crag to ourselves, an all too frequent situation at Stoney these days.

We climbed 'Aurora Arete/Tiger Trot' (HVS) and 'Windhover ' (E2), the latter of which is now missing the spooky bent over peg at the top. It must have taken one lob to many!..

Chee Dale..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Wed, 02 Jul 2008 18:59:00 +0000

I was down in Chee Dale today, which was in good condition despite the rain showers this afternoon.

The warm weather of recent weeks has resulted in all of the persistant wet weeps drying, the whole valley is dry! Most of the crags are well chalked including 'The Spider' the F8a super route on Plum Buttress.

Plum Buttress, Moving Buttress, Runyons Corner, Long Wall, Two Tier, Nettle Buttress, The Sidings, Embankment, Max Buttress, Chee Tor and the Cornice are all dry. The Nook is still wet as usual and will require some more warm weather before it dries out..

Birchen Edge

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 18:53:00 +0000

Paul Knowles was out at Birchen Edge with Jeremy and David building on many of the skills practiced on Saturday.

It sounds like they had a full day with plenty of climbing, bouldering and skills training, including some leading. All this despite some showers during the day.

Simon and I visited the middle grade sport climbing venue of Giggleswick South, near Settle in North Yorkshire. Unfortunately, a heavy shower stopped play at about mid afternoon. Despite this we climbed a number of routes including the classic 'Black Swan Rising' at F6a+. This is well worth a visit alone, although be careful going for the third bolt, you could deck out if you missed the clip. More details here in the ROCKFAX database.

Resin to Rock at Stanage Edge

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Sat, 28 Jun 2008 19:27:00 +0000

Paul Knowles was out with Jeremy and David today doing a Resin to Rock course. The weather was much better than in recent days, although increasingly windy as the day went on.

Jeremy and David climbed a number of routes up to VS, and are keen to look at some Lead Climbing skills tomorrow. Burbage North was also busy with quite a few teams out climbing and bouldering.

Further to the west Edale and Buxton MRT's attended a job on Kinder Scout, assisting a female walker with a lower leg/knee injury. She was evacuated by RAF Sea King helicopter to Sheffield.

Stoney Middleton..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 18:05:00 +0000

The last few days have seen frequent showers in the Peak District. Despite this there has been a good breeze for most of the time, resulting in fast drying conditions on the grit.

Simon and I headed to Stoney Middleton today to find some shelter in the bays around the 'Minus Ten Wall'. This area is great in the rain being steep and overhung by trees. It's also a good workout, so definitely worth a visit in showery weather.

Rubicon Wall, Millstone and Lawrencefield are also top spots if you are committed to getting something done. Both the Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) and the Met Office are suggesting patches of rain and light showers on Sunday. Fingers crossed though, I'm sure there will be plenty of action on the gritstone and limestone crags this weekend..

Unsettled Weather in the Peak District..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Sat, 21 Jun 2008 21:15:00 +0000

The weather has been a little unsettled in the Peak District today with a low cloud base over the northern moors. This has made for a damp feel combined with the rain showers!

Darren has been out climbing today at Froggatt Edge, on a Lead Climbing course with Cameron and Lisa. Froggatt is a good choice in variable conditions as it is often clear of cloud, unlike more exposed venues. This combined with some of the fastest drying gritstone slabs, nearly always ensures that you can get something done. Darren also took the opportunity to cover many of the essential skills required for lead climbing, including gear placement for belays and runners.

The weather forecast appears to be better for Sunday with light showers, although there is a possibility of high winds..

Lawrencefield..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Thu, 19 Jun 2008 14:09:00 +0000

The weather has been changeable in the Peak District over the last few days, with sunshine and some isolated but heavy showers. There has still been plenty of good weather for rock climbing, with many folk choosing to visit the fast drying gritstone venues or sheltered crags e.g. Stoney Middleton.

Rich Cross and I popped out to Lawrencefield Quarry this morning for a few routes. This sheltered suntrap is often good being out of the wind and dry in all but the worst conditions. 'Great Peter' (E1), 'Suspense' (E2), 'Billy Wizz' (E2) and 'Once Pegged Wall' (VS) gave some good sport.

It looks like the weather may well remain changeable, but most grit crags will dry quickly in the currently breezy conditions..

Mingulay..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Mon, 09 Jun 2008 07:53:00 +0000

I have just returned from the Island of Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides, following a week of climbing with friends. The weather was excellent for most of the time allowing multiple visits to Dun Mingulay, one of the biggest crags on the island.

There were at least two other teams on the island, with a French/Portuguese pair repeating perhaps one of the hardest lines in the Hebrides: Perfect Monsters. This large overhanging E7 was established by Twid Turner, Louise Thomas and Gary Latter almost exactly 10 years to the day. The second ascent was completed totally free making it even more impressive.

Other groups were heading out to Pabbay, Mingulay, Sandray and Lewis so I am sure there will be more news from these distant islands. Photos from the week can be seen here.

Froggatt Edge..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Fri, 30 May 2008 18:32:00 +0000

Morag and I were at Froggatt Edge today climbing in the 'Downhill Racer' area of the crag. Despite the drizzle early in the day the crag dried quickly allowing us to get plenty of rock climbing done.

The weather looks like it could be good over the weekend, despite being a little overcast according to the Met Office. I will be in the Outer Hebrides for a few days climbing on the island of Mingulay. This fantastic island, arguably has, some of the best sea cliff climbing in Britain.

(The picture to above is from a previous trip - Graham Stein on 'Okeanos' E2 5c,4b, with the North Atlantic crashing in below!)..

Stanage Edge

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Thu, 29 May 2008 17:06:00 +0000

Morag and I were at Stanage Edge today, with much improved weather in comparison to the last couple of days. Climbing on dry rock was a bit of a treat!..

The crag was busy with lots of teams making the most of the fine and dry weather. There was a gentle breeze for most of the day keeping the midges away. However, there were a few about suggesting that you might get eaten alive if the wind drops.

Fingers crossed for similar weather tomorrow..

Harborough Rocks..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Wed, 28 May 2008 18:28:00 +0000

Morag and I were climbing at Harborough Rocks in South Derbyshire today. This small crag of Dolomitic Limestone provides some unusual climbing on small positive 'pockets'.

Unfortunately, we didn't escape the rain and had a fairly wet day. Hopefully the weather will improve tomorrow...

Birchen and Windgather..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Tue, 27 May 2008 18:32:00 +0000

Morag and I have been climbing in the Peak District for the last couple of days, as an introduction to the grit. With visits to both Birchen and Windgather we have managed to tick a good number of routes as well as consuming plenty of cake. It has been quite windy and overcast for most of the time, with the weather deteriorating today into showers.

Despite this, we managed to get a generally dry day at Windgather Rocks on the western edge of the Peak District. A good choice with plenty of shelter from the north easterly winds, unless you were at the top!

Cooler Conditions on the Grit..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Thu, 22 May 2008 19:08:00 +0000

The weather has been cooler of late, making ideal conditions for rock climbing and bouldering on the Eastern Edges. Many folk have been out and about in the evening making the most of the cool easterly breeze. Rich Cross is pictured on the left making 'Definitive 5.12' (British 6b or V5 if you like bouldering grades) look very easy..

Climbing at Stanage Edge..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Sun, 18 May 2008 17:12:00 +0000

George, Sarah and I were at Stanage Edge today climbing around the 'Popular End'. Conditions were again good with a cool breeze and a busy crag as a result.

We looked at runner placement, belays and associated lead climbing skills while climbing a handful of routes between "Moderate" and "Very Severe".

Sunny spells are expected for the duration of next week, so it looks like ideal evening cragging conditions...

Rock Climbing at Froggatt Edge

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Sat, 17 May 2008 17:10:00 +0000

George, Sarah and I were out at Froggatt Edge today climbing in the area of 'Slab Recess' (D). We looked at a variety of techniques for both ropework and rock climbing on gritstone as Sarah and George are more used to Portland's sport climbs.

The weather was mixed today with light showers in the morning, although the rock dried quickly allowing us to makes ascents of 'Slab Recess' (D), 'Slab Recess Direct' (HS), 'Gamma' (VD), 'Nursery Slab' (M), 'Sunset Crack' (VS) and 'Sunset Slab' (HVS).

Tomorrow looks to be a better day. cloudy but dry in the Hope Valley...

Evening cragging at Millstone..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Fri, 16 May 2008 17:01:00 +0000

It was another hot day in the Peak District yesterday, although slightly cooler in the evening.

John Allen (pictured left), joined Pat and I for some climbing at Millstone Edge near Hathersage. This is sometimes a good choice in warm weather as you can often get some shade in the bays of this disused quarry.

Unfortunately for us, we decided to climb on perhaps some of the most sun baked sections of the crag, and unsurprisingly things felt a bit slippery.

There were lots of folk at the crag knocking out some classic route product, including one team who made a smooth ascent of 'London Wall' (E5).

It looks like it may be overcast for tomorrow, with finer weather on Sunday. Temperatures should be a little lower than of late which should make for much improved friction...

Another hot day on the grit..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Sun, 11 May 2008 21:36:00 +0000

It has been another busy day for rock climbers and outdoor enthusiasts in the Peak District today.

Paul and Kieran were out again today on the Eastern Edges with members of the John Lewis Climbing and Mountain Sports Club. The team were ripping the crags down again, climbing everything in sight apparently.

I was inside at Rockcity Climbing Centre in Hull, doing some training for visiting staff. After leaving I did manage to get some soloing in at Burbage North in the blistering heat.

Unfortunately, the day was not without trouble. Edale Mountain Rescue Team attended a serious climbing accident in Horseshoe Quarry near Stoney Middleton, when a climber fell the height of the crag, while treading his rope through a bolt lower off.

For the first part of the week it looks like the warm weather is set to continue. It might be worth checking out some of the shady north facing venues such as the northern edges of Kinder Scout, Wimberry Rocks, Burbage South, and Staden Quarry to name a few...

Rock climbing at Stanage Edge in the heat..

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Sat, 10 May 2008 17:43:00 +0000

Peter and I were on Stanage Edge today for a day of guided rock climbing. We started at the 'popular end' and worked our way along to the 'Dovers Wall' area, climbing and coaching as we went.

For Peter today's climbing was provided as part of his prize for raising the most money following Edale Mountain Rescue Team's Nine Edges Endurance Challenge.

You may have noticed that we have been to Stanage Edge a lot in recent days, but it is difficult justifying going to another crag when you have arguably the finest on your doorstep!

With this in mind Kieran and Paul were also out with the John Lewis Partnership Climbing and Mountain Sports Club (CAMS). They climbed on most of the crag with Robert, Sam, Simon, Hanh, Adam, Jane, Faye, Jeiff, and Pandie.

It looks like it's going to be another hot day tomorrow..

Introduction to Outdoor Climbing at Froggatt...

noreply@blogger.com (James Thacker) — Sun, 04 May 2008 17:48:00 +0000

Matt, Dan and I were at Froggatt Edge today for a second day of Intro Rock Climbing. Despite the frequent rain showers we managed to do some classic routes as well as practicing anchor selection and belay construction.

Many of the routes were slightly trickier in the wet, but were all climbed in style by Matt and Dan.

We also bumped into Morgan and Ian who were heading out to Stanage Edge following a good day at Millstone Edge yesterday. Hope you had a good day out guys?

Light showers seem to be the order of the day again tomorrow with an improvement forecast for Tuesday..