The Great Chimney..

The Smith/Marshall project is fully underway with 'Piggot's' and 'The Great Chimney' climbed already. In this video Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner climb The Great Chimney on Ben Nevis fifty years to the day after first ascent by Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith on YouTube....

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Church Door Buttress..

Dan, Allan and I decided to head up to Church Door Buttress in Coire nam Beith today.

The freezing level was again much higher than forecast but this high venue was in good condition, with plenty of helpful snow ice and rime. For us this was the second of two days mixed climbing with the aim of tackling slightly harder routes.

With this in mind we opted for 'Flake Route Right Hand' V,7, which gave a good introduction to harder hooking and torquing up the initial short, stepped corners. Above this there was plenty of highly enjoyable climbing in the IV,6 range. Only recently climbed in February 2005, by Rab Anderson and the late Rob Milne, it's definitely worth a visit and it's two stars...

Stob Coire nan Lochan..

Dan and Allan joined me today for some mixed climbing in Glen Coe. As regular winter climbers they are confident on ice and climb at steady IV,5 but were keen to experience the next grade.

We decided to head into Coire nan Lochan despite the slightly warmer than forecast conditions, climbing 'Scabbard Chimney' V,6 and 'Twisting Grooves' IV,5.

The crag was in good icy condition with well frozen turf and there were plenty of other folk out and about. Tilt, Central Buttress, and Raeburn's Buttress among others were climbed today.

Forcan Ridge and The Saddle..

Wednesday saw the start of our "mini adventure break" and yet more trail breaking.

The attractive Munro, The Saddle was the target this time via The Forcan Ridge I/II. We left slightly later in the day having made our preparations for snow holing.

As anticipated it got dark high on the route, but a clear sky led us upward when you could see through the spindrift.

Finally, The Saddle was reached and we set to building two large snow holes. The following morning saw a descent of the north ridge and a great end to a weeks winter mountaineering.

I was again out for Martin Moran..

Beinn Eighe Traverse..

Apologies for the lack of updates from the North West.

We had a big day out on Wednesday traversing Beinn Eighe via Coire an Laoigh, Sgurr Ban, Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe to Creag Dhubh via the "carls". The going was tough to say the least with some deep trail breaking required even on the ridge crest.

There is certainly plenty of snow in the North West and we were rewarded with some amazing views out to the coast, Slioch and An Teallach to name a few.

I was working for Martin Moran along with James Edwards. Will post some photos soon.

Fuar Tholl..

Today was the first of five days winter mountaineering with Danny, Richard, Paul, Andy, Terry and Louise for local Mountain Guide Martin Moran.

With about 50cm of fresh snow down to sea level here in Glen Carron we opted to go into Fuar Tholl from Achnashellach. Some determined trail breaking took us up into the corrie below the south east cliff, where we practised some essential skills.

From here we made an ascent of the north east ridge in the teeth of a northerly gale...

Will post some images when I have a better Internet connection.

British Mountain Guides Winter Training..

Toby Keep and I have just spent the last three days on the British Mountain Guides Winter Training organised by Chris Ensoll.

Monday was aimed at all things mountaineering involving a good mini traverse of Glen Coe. We started up Dinner Time Buttress I/II on the West Face of Aonach Dubh before dropping into Coire nan Lochan. A couple of laps of 'Dorsal Arete' II and descents of Broad Gully I, proceeded the brief pull up to Bidean nam Bian.

After ticking the highest Munro in Argyll it was time for some night nav (pictured) over to Stob Coire Sgreamhach and a descent of Sron na Lairig II.

Tuesday involved a day in the Northern Corries aiming to link routes together to give plenty of climbing and a logical progression of pitches.

Wednesday saw an ascent of Tower Ridge III/IV,3, some plateau navigation and a descent of Ledge Route II. It was mild with rain to summit level before a drop in the freezing level started to improve things in the mid afternoon. Although the mountain looks lean there is still plenty of ice..

Slab Climb - Air time..

Paul Knowles and I went into Coire na Ciste on Ben Nevis today with the intention of climbing on the South Trident Buttress.

The mountain wasn't as busy as I expected, but there was plenty of activity. Early in the morning there were lights heading up to the Minus Face or Point Five etc. Plenty of parties were visible on Tower Ridge, North East Buttress, Faulty Towers, Italian Right Hand, Green Gully, No.3 Gully Buttress, Thompson's Route, Route 1, Compression Cracks and Castle Ridge.

Some of the routes with approaches on North Easterly aspects looked to be quite hard work, e.g. Italian Right Hand, Green Gully etc as there were greater snow accumulations in these areas.

Iain Small and Doug Hawthorn were climbing quite close to us and may have done the First Winter Ascent of 'The Clanger' by the summer line. We were waiting below as Doug pulled through some overhanging terrain with the aid of some wild bridging.

Our target was 'Slab Climb' VI,7, (pictured) which is now a bit of a modern classic. Paul was making light work of the main slab when a hook blew resulting in 30ft fall. Somewhat battered but ok we eventually decided to beat a retreat. Although conditions are good for this sort of mixed climbing, the gear is hard won at the moment as all the cracks need to be fully cleared of ice (i.e they are in proper nick).

I should also add some news from Glen Coe: Tim Neill, Toby Keep, Dave Rudkin, and Keith Ball climbed 'Neanderthal' VII,7 on Lost Valley Buttress. A route that still has a considerable aura now following it's ascent in 1987. Nice one.

The video below is a quick pan round Coire na Ciste for an idea of current conditions as of today:

MCofS Lecture Series..

Winter 2010 sees the introduction of a new expanded MCofS Winter Lecture Series. Following on from the success at the Clachaig Inn each winter, the lectures will now run from three different locations.

The Clachaig Inn, Glencoe (Tuesday evenings)

The Mountain Cafe, Aviemore (Wednesday evenings)

The Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team Base (Thursday evenings)

The focus of the lectures is to entertain and educate on winter mountain safety. In order to deliver this, an inspiring array of speakers has been chosen who are guaranteed to provide an entertaining night out! All the speakers have spent many years in the mountains and will draw upon their own experiences to illustrate hard lessons learnt. Each presentation will last approx 45 minutes and there will be opportunity at the end of each evening for any questions. Whether you are a hardened climber, or up in the Highlands for your first winter experience, you can ensure a good night out and learn something new.

The MCofS Winter Lecture Series is free of charge and open to all. Details at http://www.mcofs.org.uk/winterlectureseries.asp

Fort William Mountain Film Festival (FWMF)

This year the Fort William Mountain Festival is taking place from the 11-15 February. As usual there is a great line up. This year is the 50th anniversary of Robin Smith's and Jimmy Marshall's historic week of first ascents on Ben Nevis.

Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner are aiming to celebrate this by completing all of the Smith/Marshall routes: 'The Great Chimney' IV,5, 'Minus Three Gully' IV,5, 'Smith's Route' V,5, 'Observatory Buttress' V,4, 'Point Five' V,5 (second ascent), 'Pigott's Route' V,6, and 'Orion Direct' V,5.

Many people have drawn comparisons between this historic week and the cutting edge ascents of 'Sassenach' IX,9, 'Bruised Violet' VIII,8, and Centurion VIII,8 (early repeat) made by Andy Turner and climbing partners in 2009 - three major routes in five days.

I guess only history will tell if these two events are comparable, but three charismatic climbers coming together to celebrate these and other ascents at FWMF should make for a great evening..

For the full line up check out the Fort William Mountain Festival website. Also UKC post.

11th to 15th February 2010

• Andy Kirkpatrick hosts the Extreme Night.
• Paul Diffley from Hot Aches screening Single Handed plus The Asgard Project on the Adventure Night.
• Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner celebrate Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith's incredible first ascents on Ben Nevis 50 years on with Jimmy Marshall himself.
• Best of Banff World Tour.

Tickets are on sale, buy yours now so you don't miss out!