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Stoney Middleton..

2009-07-02T17:37:00.002+01:00

Dave Hollinger and I decided to head to Stoney Middleton today in search of some shade.

The bays gave a bit of shade early on in the day allowing us to climb 'Fe Fi Fo Fum' HVS and 'Dead Banana Crack' E1 5c before moving to Horseshoe Quarry.

The crag has recently been the scene of a BMC crag clean up day giving it a revitalised feel. Check out the UKC News here for more information.

Hot on High Tor..

2009-07-01T22:07:00.002+01:00

Dave Hollinger and I were at High Tor today. We opted for a fairly early start hoping that the crag would be in the shade.

We were able to climb the classic diagonal traverse line of 'Debauchery' E1 5b,5b; before the sun came round and the temperature went thermo-nuclear! Al and Guy braved the heat to do 'Delicatessen' E1 5c,5b,4c.

A quick change of plan resulted in a visit to Pic Tor which was shaded by trees, yielding the route 'Prognosis' E2 5c. This is well worth seeking out if you like well protected pocket pulling.

With high temperatures forecast tomorrow being out early in the morning or late in the evening is probably the best bet. Venues such as Staden Quarry, Willersley, Pic Tor, Stoney Middleton, etc are a good choice..

Introduction to Outdoor Climbing..

2009-06-28T20:46:00.002+01:00

Darren Saxton (blog) and Katherine Schirrmacher (website) have been out over the weekend working with John Lewis Climbing Club in the Peak District.

This was a meet for members to experience climbing outdoors for the first time, many being confined to London's climbing walls. Over the weekend, the team have braved the midges at Stanage High Neb and visited the esoteric Harborough Rocks near Wirksworth.

If you haven't been it's worth checking out the solution pockets in this fantastic dolomitic limestone. In the warm weather prevailing at the moment the limestone crags are probably a good choice e.g Harborough, Staden Quarry, Pic Tor, Wild Cat, High Tor, Stoney Middleton etc.

Failing that it might be worth checking out the Northern Edges of Kinder and Wimberry if you are keen for the grit.

I have been up at Rockcity Climbing Centre in Hull today doing some Site Specific Training and Accreditation for visiting staff.

Busy on Windy Buttress..

2009-06-25T21:37:00.002+01:00

Steve and I were out yesterday evening at Stoney Middleton's Windy Buttress. With good steep climbing close to the road this is a great choice for a quick evening session.

Frequently you can enjoy the solitude but it wasn't to be - three teams on windy buttress alone; which was great to see. The new enthusiasm for this awesome crag could be due to the proposed BMC crag clean up, see details here on the BMC website

We climbed 'Windhover' E2 5c, 'Inquistor' E1 5c and 'Dies Irae' E2 5c, other climbers were on 'Scoop Wall' E2 5c and 'Rippemoff' E1.

The Limestone could be a good choice at the moment as the midges have been abundant on some gritstone edges with no breeze..

Tremadog again..

2009-06-21T19:46:00.002+01:00

With drizzly showers continuing in North Wales Tremadog was the obvious choice again.

On Saturday, the crag was busy with plenty of other teams enjoying many of the classic routes including 'Vector' E2, 'Cream' E4 and the usual classics of 'Christmas Curry' S and 'One Step in the Clouds' VS. One Irish pair were also particularly pleased to have spotted both Eric Jones and Mick Fowler in the same day!

Simon and I climbed 'Grim Wall' VS 4a,4c, the first pitch of 'Void' HVS 5b, 'Grim Wall Direct' E1 5b,5b and 'Yogi' VS 4a,4b. Sunday resulted in more damp climbing with a brief ascent of 'Hail Bebe' VD in the rain before retiring to the cafe. It looks like high pressure is returning over much of the UK next week so we should see and improvement in the weather.

Tremadog..

2009-06-19T21:09:00.002+01:00

Ian Hey (Climb Mountains) and I have been fully engaged with the three dimensional dolerite weirdness at Tremadog.

This excellent North Wales crag has been busy over the last couple of days due to the windy and showery weather.

On Thursday we visited Craig Pant Ifan climbing the classic 'Falcon' E1 5b, and 'First Slip' E1 5c (pictured), with Ian making a final big effort on the soaring line 'Vulcan' E3 6a - quite possibly E4!

Today, we visited the crag again, climbing 'Weaver' E2 5b,5c,4b and Ian making light work of the strenuous and precarious 'Geireagle' E3 5c, 4a. The large flat holds creating a significant and lasting pump!

Problem Solving and Improvised Rescue at Wildcat..

2009-06-16T22:01:00.003+01:00

Duncan, Angela and I were at Wildcat crags near Matlock today to practice problem solving and improvised rescue techniques.

With Duncan's Mountain Instructor Award Assessment coming up later in the year, we practiced some simple problems including: assisted hauling, 3:1 hauling out of the system, rescuing an unconscious climber from an abseil rope, traverse rescues and counter-balances etc.

Thanks to Angela for basking in the sun while dangling on the end of the rope, and good luck for the assessment Duncan..

Single Pitch Award Training, Burbage North..

2009-06-14T19:16:00.003+01:00

Andy, Rich, Jonny and Ryan joined me for a second day of Single Pitch Award Training today.

We spent the duration looking at group rigging, group management, bouldering activities and group abseils etc.

The weather was good again, although it did feel a bit warm for optimum grit friction. Maybe it's time to hit the Limestone?

Single Pitch Award Training..

2009-06-13T21:54:00.002+01:00

It's been another great day out in the Peak today, with warm dry weather on the Eastern Edges. The forecast showers never arrived!

I have been out on Stanage Edge (Popular End) with Andy, Ryan, Jonny and Rich for the first of two day's Single Pitch Award Training. This is one of two courses running this weekend under the providership of Peak Mountain Training.

Dave Hollinger and Katherine Schirrmacher were delivering the second course, experiencing similar glorious weather at Stanage End.

We also visited Lawrencefield Quarry briefly before heading to the Climbing Works in Sheffield to look at coaching climbing and managing bouldering sessions.

Fingers crossed tomorrow will bring similar weather..

Gogarth Upper Tier..

2009-06-10T20:50:00.003+01:00

Owen Samuel (Ibex Guides) and I decided to go to Gogarth's Upper Tier today on a slightly threatening forecast. We hoped that Holyhead might avoid the worst of the weather; it didn't!

Owen made light work of 'The Strand' E2 giving me the pleasure of following it in the rain.

Back in the Peak District there has been some heavy rain with some localised flooding in Sheffield. However, the weather appears to be improving towards the end of the week..

Sun at South Stack..

2009-06-09T21:51:00.002+01:00

Andy Turner and I enjoyed a day at Gogarth's South Stack today. The south facing sea cliffs of Castell Helen and Yellow wall were sheltered from the chilly easterly breeze making for a pleasant climbing experience in the sun.

With an early high tide we opted for the 'Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird' hybrid at E2 5a,5b,5b, 'The Moon' E3 4c,5c,5b, and 'North West Passage' E1 5a,5b.

Andy is pictured finishing the last pitch of 'Freebird'..

Rhoscolyn..

2009-06-08T21:31:00.002+01:00

Andy Turner and I visited Rhoscolyn today. The crag was sheltered from the wind making for pleasant climbing. We climbed 'The Wild Rover' E1 and 'The Savage Sunbird' E2..

Walking Group Leader Training, day 2..

2009-06-06T19:38:00.002+01:00

The second day of Peak Mountain Training's Walking Group Leader Training saw us visit the western side of Kinder Scout today.

Varying visibility, heavy rain and hail gave us some good conditions for more technical navigation. We also took the time to look at group leadership in moorland terrain as well as some emergency procedures.

Lets hope that the weather will improve on Sunday...

Walking Group Leader Training on Kinder Scout..

2009-06-05T21:39:00.002+01:00

Kinder Scout was the venue today for the first of three days Walking Group Leader Training.

Under the providership of Peak Mountain Training Neil Johnson, Dave Hollinger and I were joined by seven candidates on the moors today; the focus being accurate navigation.

Tomorrow we will be out on the northern moors again looking at the skills of group leadership..

Millstone Edge..

2009-06-05T21:33:00.002+01:00

Yesterday Dave Hollinger, Neil Sambridge and I nipped out to Millstone Edge for the afternoon.

The crag was in good but slightly greasy condition which resulted in plenty of "airtime" for a German team attempting 'London Wall' E5 6a.

We enjoyed some slightly more amenable routes such as 'Bond Street' HVS, 'Great Portland Street' HVS, 'Knightsbridge' E2 5c etc, before the midges made an appearance in the windless bays...

West Buttress Eliminate..

2009-06-03T08:39:00.002+01:00

Yesterday, Andy Turner, Dave Rudkin and I made the hour and a half walk in to Cloggy for a second time.

With warm weather forecast for a second day we opted for 'West Buttress Eliminate' E3 5c,5b,5b,4a,4c followed by 'Shrike' E2 5c,5b. Andy and Dave finished the day by climbing the fantastic route 'The Axe' E4 6a as I was leaving the crag. Dave Rudkin is pictured in the classic 'Walsh's Groove' a classic "back and footing" pitch.

The crag was again busy with teams on 'White Slab', 'Great Wall' and 'A Midsummer Night's Dream' to name a few. Lets hope the good weather continues..

Great Wall at Cloggy..

2009-06-03T08:29:00.002+01:00

Andy Turner, Owen Samuel (Ibex Guides) and I visited Clogwyn Du'r Arddu on Monday.

With great weather forecast, the shady walls of "Cloggy" were the best choice and the crag was comparatively busy. We opted for 'Great Wall' E4 6a,6a which was dispatched by Andy and Owen before heading over to do 'Silhouette' E2 4c,5c,5c.

Guiding day at Wildcat Crags..

2009-05-29T18:42:00.003+01:00

It was Morag and Callum's final day in the Peak District today; the culmination of five days climbing.

Having discussed doing something a little different we opted for a day of climbing at Wildcat Crags near Matlock. First up was an ascent of the superb solution pocketed slab of 'Cat Walk' HS 4a.

Following this we also climbed the crag classic 'Lynx' HS 4b,4a. This is a great route with a slightly tricky start followed by a tenuous traverse. The second pitch involves some steep jug pulling into the tree canopy above, classic varied climbing.

The weather looks to be good for the weekend, with high temperatures continuing. As such Peak Limestone venues could well be a good choice as the gritstone edges will feel greasy in the rising temperatures. It's a good chance to visit some of those less traveled venues..

On a different note there is a brief news piece on the British Mountain Guides Summer Training which I recently attended in the Lakes.

Yarncliffe and Lawrencefield..

2009-05-28T22:16:00.002+01:00

Morag, Callum and I have been out at Yarncliffe and Lawrencefield Quarry's today. With a slightly damp and breezy start to the day these venues seemed the best place to start.

With quite a few good routes in the bag, we retreated to Outside in Hathersage to reward ourselves with some cake! The day gradually impoved to give a very pleasant evening on the Eastern Edges. Lets hope for more of the same tomorrow...

Mountain Leader Assessment..

2009-05-27T18:48:00.002+01:00

I have been over in North Wales for the last three days directing a Mountain Leader Award Assessment along with Dan Riley.

We joined Kuldip, Alasdair, Alex, Emily, Rachel and Anghared for the expedition phase of the assessment looking at navigation, group leadership, route choice in steep ground and ropework.

Hopefully they will all come out with a good result at the end of the week.

Meanwhile, Darren Saxton has been out with Morag and Callum back in the Peak District. In the last couple of days they have sampled the varied delights of Stanage High Neb, Crow Chin and Birchen's Edge. The weather looks set to improve over the next few days..

Castle Rock..

2009-05-24T22:20:00.002+01:00

Kris Hill and I have been to The Castle Rock of Triermain today. With much better weather in the Lakes the sunny South Crag was popular with many teams climbing the short routes here.

Despite the short nature of these routes the rock is fantastic being superb rough igneous rock from the Borrowdale Volcanic series, the result - steep jug pulling.

We nipped up 'Yew Tree Climb' (VD), 'Gazebo' (HVS), 'Direct Route' (VS) before moving to the North Crag to do 'North Crag Eliminate' (E1). This three pitch classic involves "some precarious ape moves" up an old Yew Tree at half height giving some interesting climbing.

Back in the Peak District Darren Saxton was out with Mariano and Barbara again today. They opted to stay away from the crowds and went to Dovestone Tor today - a great effort.

I will be away on a Mountain Leader Award Assessment for the next few days leaving Darren to climbing with Morag and Callum. Lets hope the good weather continues..

Shepherd's Crag..

2009-05-23T18:28:00.003+01:00

With showers in the Northern Lakes this morning, Kris Hill and I opted to go to Shepherd's Crag. This fast drying and sheltered crags is usually a good bet if the weather looks unsettled.

Despite the odd bit of seepage the crag was in good condition allowing us to tick off 'Creeping Jesus' (HVS), 'Aaros' (E1), 'Finale' (HVS++), 'Evil Kneivel' (HVS), and 'Conclusion' (E1).

Meanwhile back in the Peak District Darren Saxton was out with Mariano and Barbara for a days guided climbing.

Bored? Go climbing..

2009-05-22T15:15:00.007+01:00

Here is a brief video clip from Mountain Guide Andy Perkins. Bored? Go climbing...

With better weather forecast over the Bank Holiday weekend it looks like there won't be any boredom in the Peak District..

Bouldering at Stoney Middleton..

2009-05-21T08:48:00.002+01:00

Simon, Steve and I popped out to Stoney Middleton yesterday evening in search of dry rock..

We weren't disappointed, finding dry rock in the form of the Minus Ten wall. Other areas of the crag were also dry in all but the heaviest downpours, with other climbers in the 'Wee Doris' bay. The electric quarry is also a good choice in these conditions giving some of the best climbing at Stoney; although it's not the most aesthetic location!

Nic Sellars and Tom Briggs were taking full advantage by making light work of the classic 'Cabbage Crack' E4. The good news is that the forecast looks to be much improved for the Bank Holiday weekend..

New Climbing Games Book..

2009-05-20T12:58:00.002+01:00

Again the climbing in the Peak District has been defined by sunshine and showers!

Despite the challenging weather people have been out and about at the more sheltered venues of Lawrencefield, Stoney Middleton, New Mills Tors, Millstone along with the Foundry, Edge and Climbing Works!

For those coaching, supervising and coaching others Paul Smith's Climbing Games book may well be of interest. Paul has been working hard to provide a resource for anybody involved in teaching climbing - 'Climbing Games' is the result. It includes "fun" games to facilitate warming up, through to specific exercises to encourage FUNdamental techniques (aiding "learning by stealth"). All at the reasonably accessible price of £10.

I have a few copies to distribute if you want one..