Slab Climb - Air time..
The mountain wasn't as busy as I expected, but there was plenty of activity. Early in the morning there were lights heading up to the Minus Face or Point Five etc. Plenty of parties were visible on Tower Ridge, North East Buttress, Faulty Towers, Italian Right Hand, Green Gully, No.3 Gully Buttress, Thompson's Route, Route 1, Compression Cracks and Castle Ridge.
Some of the routes with approaches on North Easterly aspects looked to be quite hard work, e.g. Italian Right Hand, Green Gully etc as there were greater snow accumulations in these areas.
Iain Small and Doug Hawthorn were climbing quite close to us and may have done the First Winter Ascent of 'The Clanger' by the summer line. We were waiting below as Doug pulled through some overhanging terrain with the aid of some wild bridging.
Our target was 'Slab Climb' VI,7, (pictured) which is now a bit of a modern classic. Paul was making light work of the main slab when a hook blew resulting in 30ft fall. Somewhat battered but ok we eventually decided to beat a retreat. Although conditions are good for this sort of mixed climbing, the gear is hard won at the moment as all the cracks need to be fully cleared of ice (i.e they are in proper nick).
I should also add some news from Glen Coe: Tim Neill, Toby Keep, Dave Rudkin, and Keith Ball climbed 'Neanderthal' VII,7 on Lost Valley Buttress. A route that still has a considerable aura now following it's ascent in 1987. Nice one.
The video below is a quick pan round Coire na Ciste for an idea of current conditions as of today:


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